We surmised on our last day, as we walked on the boardwalk under the hot spring sun, that we had probably just come a month too early, for what makes Saranda a paradise also makes it a bit of a torment. With very few tourists to contend with at this time of year, it also meant that little tourism infrastructure was in place. We would have loved the opportunity to get out into the bay on kayaks but that was not available. We had our choice of just a handful of restaurants. Twice we climbed up to Lekursi Castle, and both times it was closed to visitors. When it’s off-season in Albania, it is quite literally off-season in Albania, moreso than any other country we’ve been in.The view did help, mind you, with morning coffee or afternoon cocktail in hand, and in between the mountain of behind-the-scenes work that we finally got to. When we did venture out we cruised the boardwalk between the frequent spring rain spells, past the vendors selling raw sunflower seeds scooped out of decorative tins. We sat for drinks at one of the many open cafes (there is an incredible number of cafe/bars in this country, compared to actual restaurants), and eavesdropped on old men dressed in impeccable suits, ties and smart hats, just out to stroll in the streets and gossip with their friends on park benches.

But we did find ourselves getting a little restless.

It wasn’t until our last week that we struck out to explore more of the area – auspiciously choosing the very best day of weather since our arrival (largely because we both defiantly slept past the alarm the day before).The rental car owner had warned us that our single day plans were too ambitious, and he was right. The roads, while in relatively good condition, consistently wound up and down the coast and into the mountains that skirted it, keeping our speed minimal. Pete took great pleasure in gliding around curves with few other cars to contend with, but he did always have to be mindful of other traffic – sheep, goats, cows, donkeys, people riding horses, a lady with an ax, and the occasional washout or pile of crumbled rocks. We didn’t get as far north or inland as was recommended, but really could not claim disappointment with our day in the slightest.

And this is how far we got.

Butrint

Less than 20km south of Saranda is the ancient city of Butrint, one of only two UNESCO sites in Albania (Berat being the other), containing artifacts and structures that date all the way back to the Bronze Age. Of all the ancient ruins we’ve visited over the years, this small site is placed firmly among our favourites. With few other tourists to contend with, and in its natural swampy state inviting frogs and turtles to live among the ruins, we could have wiled away much more time enjoying Butrint if we didn’t have such a heavy day of touring planned.