The Keeper of Keys
A few shards of broken glass were scattered on the narrow platform at the top. We circled it to check angles for light and view, snapped a dozen photos, and then just stood soaking in the busy street scenes below, staying much longer than we ever intended.
It’s in these moments where we find such pleasure as travelers – relishing in the discovery of those places that seem so deliciously secretive. Just us, right there, right then.
Berat is a tiny city, but one that we enjoyed walking many times over, up onto the cramped cobbles between hillside homes, navigating the slick mossy steps and stopping for photos of the odd bright door amidst the repeated walls of off-white. On one outing I got caught up in a complex conversation of hand gestures with an elderly woman peddling various jellies and pomegranate wine, and she expertly succeeded in getting me to pay far too much for a recycled soda bottle of the latter. (I have developed a distressing indifference to adorable children selling their wares – knowing that making a purchase does more harm than good – but I can never resist a cute grandma.)
“People call me the king of the castle,” Toni said, “but that’s just not true. I’ve lived here all of my life, so I have a set of keys.”
Constructed mainly in the 13th century, the fortress has sustained a considerable amount of damage over the years but still remains a formidable sight given the elevated location and characteristics of its architecture. Even past conquerors and tyrants, acknowledging its importance, sometimes chose to leave it unharmed (the Ottomans, for example, destroyed many churches throughout the country but left some in Berat).
And it was at those churches where Toni pulled out his keys to remove the padlocks that barred the doors. Light filtered in to illuminate the vibrant frescoes and delicately patterned floors inside the tiny buildings. Those of which may have been no more remarkable than any others we have seen, but I believe the covert nature of our viewing them made the hues brighter and the details more intricate.
At Toni’s insistence, we were allowed to take photos, but not share them publicly. So instead we share this collection from around the fortress, which also still has a population and tiny economy within its walls.
Pete with the King of the Castle.
There are few places left in the world, and even fewer in Europe, that offer such spectacularly fresh experiences with no formal tourist-herding control in place. I expect that Berat and Albania won’t be this way for long – soon the keepers will be replaced by turnstiles and visitors will no longer have the luxury of ample space and time.
For those of you with even an inkling of wanting to travel to Albania, now would be the time to do it.
Well Heck, now I want to go there! Another addition to our List. Absolutely knock-out incredible photos!
Shirley recently posted..The Yellow City
Thank you Shirley!
Thank you for the Berat picture-fest tour and hotel recommendation. I saw very few electrical cables, other than on the hillside house(s). Are many of the European cities’ power cables underground? Where/how is the energy generated? Is solar in the distant future? Is Wi-Fi easily available or do you have another method of uploading?? Are you using tablet or laptop? Many questions and thank you for posting the photograph lesson(s).
Hi Ellen….I’m sorry I don’t have much knowledge on Europe’s power system, and I’m sure it varies vastly by country.
Wifi on the other hand…I know about. 🙂 It was actually quite good in Albania, better than what we had in Germany before we got there!
How serendipitous and what stunning photos! I’ve been thinking of Albania for a long time. Time to finally make it happen 🙂
You really should go Shivya! I’m sure you would enjoy it.
Experiences like this is what makes Albania so special.
And I think you’re right – anyone thinking of going there should go now!
Megan recently posted..Living art in Hosier Lane
It looks lovely almost as if it could serve as a filming location for Game of Thrones!
Murissa recently posted..Sunday Pranzo: A Lobster Feast in Boston
Ah, love the sound of that – the keeper of the keys. You snapped some great shots. Albania sounds lovely – totally non-touristy for now…
Sand In My Suitcase recently posted..Getting our spring flower fix at Vancouver’s VanDusen Botanical Garden
Thanks for cementing my desire to visit Albania even more! Stunning images, too – as ever 🙂
Sounds like y’all are getting some spectacular behind-the-scenes information. Love the double-sunburst shot.
Mary @ Green Global Travel recently posted..Using Journalism Skills & Expert Content to Build Your Brand
Adore these pics! Berat is easily one of my favorite places I have visited! And these photos prove why.