Life in a Far Northern Town
Pete returned just a few minutes later. With his eyes focused upwards while walking on a peaceful street, hoping to see any glimmer of green cosmic light, he returned his gaze to street level and realized how utterly vulnerable he was. And that at any second, he could come face-to-face with a curious polar bear. Disastrous encounters in this small northern town usually happen when people forget to respect this environment in which they are in. He did not want to be one of those statistics.
It’s Churchill’s great deception. For all its friendly residents and quiet streets that would lure visitors into feeling welcome and secure, danger lurks large, in the form of an icon of the Arctic who moves stealthily and is primarily motivated by one thing.
Hunger.
The residents of Churchill are on high alert during this time that the bears are passing through. House and vehicle doors are left unlocked should anyone need immediate shelter. An alert program is in place with a 24-hour emergency number that everybody knows. Gunshots are commonly used to scare those bears that get too close (in one day we heard six in the span of just a few hours). Large bear traps can be seen in some spots surrounding the town, and a bear “jail” even exists to house those who are not so easily deterred. The bears will be brought in while tranquilized and held up to thirty days; if the ice hasn’t formed on the Bay during that time, then they will be hoisted by helicopter to a location further north.
Halloween, smack dab in the middle of bear season, is an event like none other. Residents circle the town in their vehicles and helicopters circle above to ensure that the children can safely go door-to-door after dark. Common sense would have kids avoid costumes that resemble their hungry neighbours.
And journeys into open spaces are done under the watchful eye of someone with a rifle who knows how to use it.
Polar bear jail.
“You’ll see my colleague David there with a 12 gauge shotgun full of lethal ammo. He’s on polar bear patrol.” Rhonda, an interpretive guide at Cape Merry, stood on the steps of our converted school bus to explain the significance of the narrowing sliver of land in front of us, along with her own affinity to the area. She traded one northern locale (in Ontario) for another, and declared Churchill to be the home she would never leave.
Rhonda’s story was one we heard often during our short stay there, from locals and seasonal employees alike who return year after year. What continually draws them there may vary by person – while some likely shirk from the vigilance required to live in the surroundings of such powerful beasts and a harsh climate – I could absolutely acknowledge the appeal. Not only from the challenge of both mind and body to live so remotely, but also to be a part of such a close-knit community where the residents rely on each other to help preserve the safety of both themselves and the bears.
It is a tiny and quiet town, bustling for only two months of the year, but in a fascinating natural environment that can hardly be found elsewhere.
“That’s a bonus bear!” our guide Hayley said, referring to the fact that we had our first encounter before even venturing out onto the tundra. A bonus for us indeed, but likely not if someone had been caught unaware around the corner.
Our excitement at seeing that first giant of the north could not be overstated though. For that is what we had made the trip to Churchill for, and the best of our sightings was yet to come.
how to do it
Our trip was courtesy of Travel Manitoba and Frontiers North Adventures. All opinions, as always, are our own.
Delicious coffee, a good a.m. posting joined with with MY own polar bears displayed on computer display background. I remember the frigid Arctic blasts that picked up energy over Hudson Bay dispensed over the Great Lakes and surrounding landfall–specifically a winter the freighters surrounded by solid ice were powerless to proceed and huge waves frozen in motion visible on the shoreline of Lake Erie. I learned from Wiki the name of another Canadian province–Nunavut.
Nunavet is fairly new (relatively) so most people don’t know about it! Although it actually is a “territory” and not a province. Pretty cool that you read the post with your own polar bears on display! 😉
I’ve been following your blog for a while now. It is inspiring! It helps us less adventurous travelers get glimpses of lands far, far away. It was nice to see you back in Canada. Looking forward to your future travels.
Thanks Marg! We always love to come back and explore more of our own backyard – we hope to do more this year!
What a beautifully told story! You have a way with words, Mrs Heck 😉
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Merci!
Despite all the frigid places you’ve visited this year, you somehow keep adding to my list of must visit places. And this of course is now added to my list!
We like the cold! 🙂
What a cool story (also, scary)! I couldn’t help but giggle at the “polar bear jail,” though 😉
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Right? I never expected that! Bad bears!
Love this. Hard to believe all the precautions they have to take for ordinary things like Halloween! Certainly a different kind of life.
WOW! Gorgeous pictures and love the story around it. I knew that Churchill is the polar capitol of the world but with your pics it’s even better to imagine what it’s like to live there.
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Great intro – can’t wait to hear about the rest of the trip!
Reading about Pete wandering the streets at night reminds me of a time I was in a small town outside Yellowstone and the laundromat was across the street from my hotel…I was so freaked out walking back and forth late at night! Certainly heightens your sense of awareness!
This post brought back so many great memories of our 2012 trip to Churchill! We loved the “polar bear jail,” and were so impressed with the innovative ways locals have figured out for (mostly) peacefully co-habitating with such fearsome predators. Can’t help but admire how they seem to prioritize conservation over the profit they’d gain from exploitation.
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I have always wanted to be surrounded by snow/ice and isolated from the world. That’s why I’ve been wanting to go to Antartica for so long. But after seeing your post, maybe a trip to Manitoba would be an excellent destination as well. Thanks for the great post 🙂
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I live this post I really like this type of places they are so relax the people that live their they live different
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Churchill looks like a beautiful town. It would take a while to get used to polar bear sirens though. Thanks for sharing!
You had me hanging on every word – you’re a wonderful storyteller Dalene. I’d read the follow up to this post and had been meaning to read the first. What a unique environment to experience. Reading polar bears outnumber humans for part of the year made me smile – so hard thinking of these majestic animals struggling with melting ice and dwindling food sources. Thanks for a great post 🙂
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Not sure what is more interesting about this post – the bear “jail” they have for those polar bears who aren’t deterred easily by the gunshots or the SWAT Team-like atmosphere that the children experience at Halloween for their own personal safety. Crazy!
Now Churchill is definitely on my radar! It’s lovely to see pictures of the town covered in snow. This seems like a lovely adventure worth checking out, thanks for sharing your experience!
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