The Bluenose: History, Legacy, and Visiting Bluenose II in Lunenburg
Words by Dalene Heck / Photography by Pete Heck; Original Bluenose photos by W.R. MacAskill
It was mere minutes after the Delawana from Nova Scotia lost to the Esperanto from Massachusetts in the inaugural International Fisherman’s Cup in 1920 that the idea for the Bluenose was conceived.
The desire for the Bluenose came from the desire to win. Yes, she was also a fishing vessel that would serve her community well (and break records for massive cod hauls), but her entire conception stemmed from a deeply prideful place.
The Bluenose – and Nova Scotia – needed to beat the Americans.
And beat them she did. Designed by a Haligonian and built right in Lunenburg, the Bluenose was built for speed. And with speed, completed in just 96 days using hand tools only. When I asked Captain Phil Watson of the replica Bluenose II why the original vessel was so successful, he narrowed it down to two reasons. For one, the Bluenose was built longer than any other schooner at the time, and length contributes greatly to speed. Secondly, she was under the command of a badass captain.
Angus Walters led her on the waters the following year, and with a triumphant win over the American challenger Elsie, the Bluenose brought the trophy to Nova Scotia. In the years to come, the Americans built new vessels with the sole intent of beating the Bluenose, but they consistently came up short. The Bluenose remained undefeated in the International Fisherman’s Cup in her 17 years of racing.
Immense fame and notoriety followed. Bluenose was dubbed the “Queen of the Atlantic” and became an iconic symbol for Nova Scotia and for Canada. At his core, Captain Walters was a fisherman and racing champion, facing challenges from the ocean of folk-tale proportions, but then suddenly had to balance his time by meeting and greeting international dignitaries. Bluenose and her Captain became important ambassadors of Canada, thrust firmly into the spotlight.
The continued success of the Bluenose cemented Lunenburg and Nova Scotia’s renowned expertise as shipbuilders. But why, now that we are decades past the “golden age” of sailing, does the story of the Bluenose have such staying power? I asked the current Captain Phil Watson.
His answer highlighted two great stories that we can all relate to. For one, there are the epic legends of man vs. nature; in this case, forging the ability to slice through water at remarkable speeds. And second is the story of country vs. country. For a newly minted nation such as Canada, this was the first real show of skill on an international stage. This was the first time we beat our rivalrous neighbours to the south. And the ship itself, while designed, built, and raced from Nova Scotia, contained elements of the whole country (like the Douglas Fir from British Columbia used to build the enormous masts). The Bluenose wins, and the international acclaim that accompanied them, rippled across Canada and united its citizens in pride.
Of course, the vessel’s infamy is helped by the fact that the Bluenose was immortalized on the dime in the 1930s and has thus graced our pockets and loose-change purses ever since. To this day, the Bluenose remains the only item represented on a Canadian coin that is not from the natural world.
The Bluenose came to her sad demise in 1946. As you might expect, such sailing vessels are expensive and difficult to maintain, and even Angus Walters himself tried to keep her (quite literally) afloat. But when funds ran out, the Bluenose was sold to the West Indies Trading Company in 1942 and worked in the Caribbean Sea hauling fruit. She struck a coral reef and was abandoned there. When Angus Walters heard the news, he was at the curling club in Lunenburg, participating in a bonspiel. The whole community paid witness to his anguish over the loss of a schooner he had dedicated so much of his life to.
But his efforts are still lauded today, especially since the replica – the Bluenose II – was built in 1963 by many of the original Bluenose shipbuilders. Angus was invited on her maiden voyage at the age of 82, and upon his first steps on her deck, said two simple words: She’ll do. Those who knew Angus knew that this was the highest honour he could give.
What I can’t help but still wonder: Did they have any idea, at the time, that the Bluenose would be celebrated a century later? That her likeness would adorn everything from currency to beer cans to bags of coffee to teddy bears and beyond? The Bluenose II is not exactly the same ship, although much has been kept the same. The current sails are made by the granddaughter of the person who made the original sails. The towering masts are still made of British Columbia’s Douglas Fir wood. The ingrained scrolls are the same, and many, many other details that I won’t recount here.
What matters most, however, is what the vessel represents and the ripples she still casts. As landlocked Albertans who grew up well after the time of the Bluenose, and thousands of kilometres from where her presence was felt most, our knowledge came mostly from a quick lesson in early school days and this Heritage Minute. It wasn’t until we saw the Bluenose II in person and spoke with those connected to her that we realized how deep the legacy goes.
The crew told us stories of people crying when they walked her decks. While they are too young to have seen the original Bluenose in person, the stories of her told by their grandparents filled their childhoods. Finally being able to experience this piece of living history held great meaning.
We met Sébastian McSween, the Creative Lead with Amos Pewter, an artisan shop located in nearby Mahone Bay. He worked as a deckhand in the early 2000s aboard the Bluenose II and brought that experience to life in another way, by designing a commemorative pewter piece honouring the Bluenose’s legacy. Rather than simply replicating the schooner’s likeness in pewter, he wanted to incorporate something special into a pendant. On the front: An illustration of the ship’s scroll from the vantage point of the deck. On the back: An imprint of the original winning sails that now sit in a museum. With the sails forbidden from being touched (to preserve the fabric), the museum conducted high-resolution scans of the cloth and turned it into a 3D landscape to create the mould. They specifically included a seam to add more texture.
Walking around Lunenburg, the homages to Bluenose are seemingly endless. Ceramic replicas can be found in stores and in home windows. Restaurant menus have items paying homage. We even saw two tourist children with their noses painted blue, excitedly walking up to the vessel for a quick tour on board. We even found out that everyone can track a White Shark named Bluenose (who was first tagged near Lunenburg) as he makes his way around Nova Scotia.
We spent some time at Ironworks Distillery sampling their impressive offer of spirits, produced in a building that was home to marine blacksmiths (who, of course, served both Bluenose ships) for 111 years. On offer is their exceptional, award-winning Bluenose Rum, rich in caramel and molasses flavours. They also have a Heart Iron Whiskey, named after a specific piece of heart-shaped metal, painted red, that was on both the Bluenose and now the Bluenose II.
We tried the Bluenose Brew from Laughing Whale Coffee, the Bluenose Commemorative Ale from Saltbox Brewing Company, and the Bluenose Lager from Shipwright Brewing. We also sampled the Bluenose Drive chocolate (sea salt flavour, of course) from Lunenburg Rum Cakes. What was most apparent (besides reflecting on how much we love our jobs) was that with everything dedicated to the Bluenose, the quality of all we tasted and savoured suited their purpose. They each paid honour in the most delicious way.
On the last day of our visit, a crowd gathered to watch her leave the harbour on a crew-training exercise. While the attendees generally skewed older, all ages were represented. The kids, their noses painted blue, had returned with their parents to see her off as well. We even drove up the coastline for a while as she glided towards open waters, chasing her with our cameras.
Upon our return to Lunenburg, and in our last few hours in the town before beginning the journey home, we sat for lunch overlooking the harbour. It looked empty without her. The Bluenose shaped a town, a province, and a country. Her proud place in our collective history is most certainly earned.
The following is a brief video from our time visiting the Bluenose II in Lunenburg, in celebration of her centennial.
Visiting Bluenose II: Everything You Need to Know
If the story of the Bluenose has gotten under your skin, here’s how to experience her yourself.
Find the Bluenose II
While her home is in Lunenburg, she is a busy schooner during the summer months! Start by checking where the Bluenose II will be; if not in Lunenburg, maybe at another port near you.
Harbour Cruises
When Bluenose II is in Lunenburg or Halifax, there are typically two-hour harbour cruises twice daily at various points throughout the sailing season. Tickets are priced at $110 for adults and $45 for children aged 3 – 12 (taxes and fees included). Youth under 16 must be accompanied by an adult. Cruises run at 9:30 – 11:30 am and 1:30 – 3:30 pm. Morning check-in is between 8:00 – 9:00 am; afternoon check-in between 12:00 – 1:00 pm.
Cruises fill up fast in July and August! Book online or call 1-855-640-3177 well in advance.
Open Decks (Free)
Can’t make a cruise? Open decks allow you to walk the deck of Bluenose II and chat with the crew at no cost and with no need to book ahead. While in Lunenburg and Halifax, decks are typically open between cruises (from 11:45 am to 1:00 pm, and from 3:45 pm until dusk). This is exactly how we first experienced her, and it’s genuinely worth it. Standing on the iconic Bluenose II deck with the harbour behind you…the scale of the ship becomes real in a way that photos never quite capture.
Deckhand for a Day
For the full experience, you can join the crew of Bluenose II for a full day of sailing! Scrub decks, help set and strike the sails, take the helm, and have lunch with the crew. It’s the closest you’ll get to understanding what life aboard her really felt like. Book here.
Practical Tips
- Dress in layers, especially if you’re going on a sail (it can be noticeably cooler at sea) and wear comfortable, non-slip shoes. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
- Free parking is available along Linden Ave and certain parts of Bluenose Drive, or at the Lunenburg Community Centre (about a 15-minute walk). Paid parking is available at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic.
- No food or drink is allowed on board except bottled water, and there is no smoking on board or on the dock.
- If the cruise is cancelled due to weather or mechanical issues, you’ll receive a full refund. Cancellations by passengers require 24 hours’ notice.
- The deck of Bluenose II is wheelchair accessible, though daily tide times can affect ramp access from the wharf.
More Bluenose in Lunenburg
The Bluenose experience extends well beyond the ship:
- The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, right on the waterfront, houses the original winning sails and tells the broader story of the Grand Banks fishery that the Bluenose was built to serve.
- Ironworks Distillery, in a building that housed marine blacksmiths for over a century, is worth a stop for their Bluenose Rum alone.
- The official Bluenose II company store is where you can pick up the best Bluenose souvenirs.
- Keep your eyes peeled when you wander the town — you’ll find the Bluenose celebrated on everything from coffee bags to ceramics! It’s the kind of place where history hasn’t been preserved so much as it’s still being lived.
Where to Stay in Lunenburg
While you can just visit Lunenburg on a day trip from Halifax, this small town offers so much that you’ll want to stick around! Book a night or two at either of the following and extend your exploration:
- You cannot beat the location of the Lunenburg Arms Hotel; almost everything you want to see is within a 5-minute walk. Some of the rooms even overlook the harbour. We loved our stay here!
- The Rose & Thistle B&B is often fully booked because it is that good. It’s elegant, comfortable, and in a lovely old home. Enjoy a beautiful breakfast, which will fuel you for the quick walk (~10-15 mins) to the heart of Lunenburg.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Bluenose
Why is the Bluenose on the Canadian dime?
The Bluenose was first featured on the Canadian ten-cent coin in 1937, following years of international racing success that made her a symbol of Canadian pride and craftsmanship. She has appeared on the dime ever since, making her the only item on a Canadian coin that doesn’t come from the natural world (no animals, no landscapes…just a schooner from Lunenburg)!
Where did the original Bluenose sink?
The original Bluenose met a sad end far from home. Facing mounting maintenance costs after her racing days were over, she was sold to the West Indies Trading Company in 1942. She worked hauling fruit in the Caribbean until she struck a reef off Haiti in 1946 and was lost. Captain Angus Walters, who had dedicated so much of his life to her, heard the news while curling in Lunenburg. The community witnessed his grief firsthand.
Is Bluenose II the same as the original Bluenose?
Not exactly, though the two ships share far more than just a name. Bluenose II is an exact replica of the original Bluenose, built in 1963 by many of the same shipbuilders who constructed the first. The masts are still made of Douglas Fir from British Columbia. The scrollwork is identical. The current sails were made by the granddaughter of the woman who made the original sails. What differs is the era and the purpose. Where the original was a working fishing vessel and racing champion, Bluenose II sails as Nova Scotia’s official sailing ambassador, keeping the legacy alive for a new generation.
Who was Captain Angus Walters?
Angus Walters was the captain who made the Bluenose a legend. A Lunenburg fisherman through and through, he took command of the Bluenose in 1921 and led her to victory after victory in the International Fisherman’s Cup; a record that stood, unbroken, across 17 years of racing. He was fiercely proud of both the ship and the province, and fought to keep the original Bluenose afloat long after it no longer made economic sense.
Can you sail on the Bluenose II?
Yes, the Bluenose II offers two-hour harbour cruises twice daily when in port, departing from Lunenburg and Halifax. Adult tickets are $110, and children’s tickets (ages 3–12) are $45. If you’d rather visit without booking a cruise, open decks are free and require no reservation. The ship is typically open to walk-on visitors between cruises and from late afternoon until dusk.
Why is the Bluenose called the “Queen of the North Atlantic”?
The nickname came from the Bluenose’s dominance in the International Fisherman’s Cup races throughout the 1920s and 1930s. American competitors built vessel after vessel with the specific goal of beating her, but they failed every time. Combined with her record-setting fishing hauls and her growing role as a Canadian ambassador, the title stuck. Today, it’s inseparable from her identity.
This post was produced by us, brought to you by Tourism Nova Scotia.
