If I could have anticipated his desires more closely, I might have planned the trip a little differently and a little more into the unknown. But our original plan to hit up the Emilia Romagna region was for our own selfish purposes: we wanted to return for the amazing food we had discovered on our last visit, and Pete wanted to get behind the wheel of a Ferrari. We kinda felt like we were dragging Avery away from the tourist route all first-time travelers should see and just hoped he wouldn’t mind.

He didn’t, and instead he raved, and not just for the thrill ride in a Ferrari. The exquisite dishes we ate won him over as the best food from Italy we had. With 25 yo balsamic vinegar drizzled over parmesan, prosciutto that melted in our mouths, and the most luxurious pasta we’ve ever eaten, Ave actually slowed down his frantic eating pace to savour each bite. (For an 18 yo male with an insatiable appetite, this is the biggest compliment he could give.)

And then there was also the divine Emilia Cremeria gelato shop that we frequented twice daily (seriously the best we had in all of Italy, and we tested a LOT), and an unexpected festival right outside our hotel door that enraptured us one evening. One event had an artist using an old-fashioned projector – as he rapidly painted with both hands to the rhythm of music on a thin plastic sheet, the screen lit up with his colorful sketches and the plaza echoed with the rise and fall of his voice. We longed for the ability to understand the story, but were nonetheless enthralled with the dramatic flair in which it was told.

Overall though, we revered the calm. We did not miss shuffling among hundreds and hearing English more often than not. Here, we felt like we were cherishing a real slice of Italy.

The final event that exalted Modena (maybe moreso for me than Ave) occurred during our trip up the Ghirlandina tower. Or should I say, after that trip in which I somehow dropped my wallet without noticing, when a harmonious string of events saw the police track me down at our hotel and drop if off before we left the next morning.Would that have happened in Rome? Or Florence? Probably not, and convinces me yet again that it is the off-beat tourist destinations that provide the most endearing experiences. And I’m glad that Ave didn’t have to just tolerate this side-trip, but instead enjoyed it as much as we did.

We don’t often get to play tour guide to family and friends, but when we do, I have been pleasantly surprised to find their experiences most enriched by those that I cherish as well. Like my Mom choosing Burhaniye over Istanbul, and now Avery lauding Modena over most of Italy. Their reactions have mirrored mine, and I don’t know if it is a familial traveler gene within, or if this is indicative of humankind as a whole. I don’t want to start the beaten debate of traveler-versus-tourist, but I think that deep down everyone would enjoy a trip off the well-treaded path, they just need to give themselves the chance to do so.

And with Italy being one of the most frequented countries in the world – Modena is the perfect place to start.